Originally published in Lonely Planet’s Epic Rides of The Americas in 2019
Venture into the Montana wilderness of Glacier National Park to ride through old-growth forests, to crystal clear lakes, along the towering peaks of the Northern Rocky Mountains.
I have done this ride a number of times and it never seems to get old. It is not every day where you can ride a 20-mile (32 km) car-free dirt road through a National Park Wilderness to be rewarded with a Huckleberry Bear Claw from a world-renowned bakery and a cooling swim in a glacial lake. These features, along with many others of the Glacier National Park Loop, have been luring me back to northern Montana on a regular basis.
The Glacier National Park Loop starts and ends in the town of Whitefish, Montana. With a rich history of timber and logging, Whitefish today serves as an adventure hub for those visiting the National Park, the ski resort, one of the many large lakes in the area, and more recently, the large network of flowing mountain bike trails outside of town. The Great Northern Railway runs through the center of town and delivers travelers from all over the country by the Amtrak train.
The loop circumnavigates smooth gravel roads in the Whitefish Range, through the Kootenai and Flathead National Forests, as well as Glacier National Park. The total mileage of the loop is 105-miles (169 km) and is relatively easy going which allows time for a variety of satellite missions to more scenic lakes, hikes, or even a ‘Ride to the Sun’.
Having ridden this route in both directions, I prefer following it in the counter-clockwise direction, in order to maximize the steep and fast 30-mile (48 km) descent from Red Meadow Pass down to Whitefish at the end of the ride. In this direction, the route starts with a gradual departure from town to the countryside and into the complex network of old logging roads of the Flathead National Forest. From there the route drops briefly into the North Fork River Valley before heading into Glacier National Park where bicyclists can enjoy camping at one of the $8.00 hiker-biker sites available. I set up a base camp here and let the fun begin.
The first thing I do is jump off the dock into the icy blue waters of Lake McDonald surrounded by craggy granite Rocky Mountain peaks. Since there are no showers in the campgrounds the lake is the only way to clean the salty sweat off my skin. The water is ice-cold, shocking, but incredibly refreshing. Any hesitation I had before I jumped was wasted energy as the cold water reinvigorated my hot tired body. I’m ready for the next thing. A huckleberry milkshake from the ice cream shack, perhaps? I indulge then make my way back to camp to socialize with the fellow bicycle travelers who share my campsite.
Back on route, I meander my way through the park’s maze of bike paths, gravel roads, and a short stretch of single-track until I reach the trailhead for the Inside North Fork Road. Surrendered to mother nature, the Inside North Fork Road is an old gravel road that has been washed out, rutted, and burned over the years. Because of the poor road surface, the National Park only allows hikers and bikers to use the path. This is most certainly one of the wildest places I have ridden a bike. I have seen black bears and a grizzly bear while riding this road so I hold my bear spray tight and at the ready and turn on my portable Bluetooth stereo. Eventually, any fear I had subsides as I settle into the rhythm and momentum of the rolling foothills through the old-growth ponderosa pine forests and watch new life emerge from the dead and burned. It is a peaceful ride when the music isn’t blasting and I enjoy picking the sweet and tart fruits from the huckleberry, thimbleberry, and raspberry patches for a roadside snack. I don’t linger long as any lush patch of berries is bound to attract more visitors than just me.
Passing through the gate at the end of the 20-mile (32 km) wilderness stretch along the Inside North Fork Road, I am overcome with a false sense of security as I start seeing more cars. Just because I did not encounter a bear there, doesn’t mean I couldn’t encounter one here. My destination for the night is a short satellite mission up to Bowman Lake where I enjoy idyllic camping next to another ice-cold, crystal clear lake surrounded by Glacier’s impressive peaks.
In the morning I roll down to the 100-year old Polebridge Mercantile which is a renowned destination amongst adventures for resupply and their world-class sweet and savory baked treats. I eat a huckleberry bear claw and bring one to go. The final climb and descent over Red Meadow Pass lie ahead.
Although the climb is long, it is smooth and easy offering grand departing views of the Northern Rocky Mountains. I know I’m at the top when I reach Red Meadow Lake. I stop here to take in the scenery that inspires paintings and one last swim before I make the final fast 30-mile descent to town. Clouds roll in with rain shortly after. As I meander through a turn I stop dead in my tracks. A large white wolf is standing on the side of the road 20-yards in front of me. Unfazed and in no hurry, the wolf walks into the tree line and disappears into the dense forest. It’s not a fearful moment; it’s a peaceful one. Perhaps it’s this unique immersion into such a wild and alive place that keeps me coming back for more, time after time.
Note
Going To The Sun Road is a world-renowned bucket-list climb that is accessible from the Glacier National Park Loop. This satellite mission is a 60-mile round-trip from Apgar Campground. The climb itself is 30-miles (48 km) covering +4,500 ft (1372 m) and offers commanding views of Rocky Mountain Peaks and opportunities to spot mountain goats balanced on craggy cliffs. The road closes to bicyclists at 11 a.m. (due to heavy vehicle traffic) so be sure to start early!
Details
Start / Whitefish, Montana
End / Whitefish, Montana
Distance / 105 Miles (169 km)
Getting There / Kalispell Airport or Amtrak Train
Where to stay / The Whitefish Hostel, Camp in Glacier National Park and at Bowman Lake
Best time of year to ride / mid-June through mid-October
Route GPX / https://ridewithgps.com/routes/15106314
For more information on this route visit, http://www.bikepacking.com/routes/red-meadow-pass/
What To Bring / GPS device, camping equipment, water filter, cookware, smell-proof bags, clothing layers, repair kit, spare tubes, a battery charger, swimsuit, a bear bell, bug, and bear spray!
What type of bike / A bicycle with at least 40mm tires is best used for this route.
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