Originally published in Lonely Planet’s Epic Rides of The Americas in 2019.
A romantic get-away from the colorful and charming city of Oaxaca that winds through the rugged and mystic Sierra Madre del Sur Mountains and down to Mexico’s exotic pacific coastline.
Not many couples imagine celebrating Valentines Day by going on a five-day bike pack over steep mountains to get to their beach vacation, but maybe they should. Over 170-miles (274 km) and a leg burning elevation gain of 21,000 ft (6,400 m), the Oaxaca to Zipolite route follows dirt roads from the colorful, culinary, colonial city of Oaxaca, past mezcal farms growing agave, through remote indigenous villages in the Sierra Madre del Sur Mountains, to sea level ending at Playa Zipolite, Mexico’s first and only legal nudist beach. My partner I and justified this vacation as the proper balance between effort and reward with the intention of making the good times even sweeter.
We started our trip in Oaxaca City, which is home to one million and visited by more for its colonial-era architecture, cultural charm, exquisite mole cuisine, lively festivals, and the pyramids of Monte Alban. We meandered through markets, sipped hot chocolate in the Zócalo and explored the vaulted ceilings of the many colorful colonial cathedrals, monasteries, and convents lining Oaxaca’s narrow cobbled streets. Oaxaca’s appeal makes for an inspiring location to start a bike tour and a tough place to leave. With our bellies full of chapulines (fried grasshoppers seasoned with chili), mole, and fresh piña we reluctantly set out on course through Oaxaca’s Valle Centrales (Central Valley).
The route flows easily and quickly out of the city and into the countryside where crops of agave are grown to make mezcal, a distilled alcoholic beverage similar to Tequila that famously comes from this region. We stop at a roadside café for a home cooked meal of chicken and mole. At the end of our meal our host brings two shot glasses of mezcal, as if to share a local tradition or an after meal treat. We sip the strong and smoky beverage out of respect and gratitude for our hosts’ generosity, but we know the alcohol will not help with navigating out of the road maze of this town. We manage and continue through agricultural farms, along flat dirt roads lined with succulents, and cacti as we make our way to the foothills of the Sierra Madre del Sur Mountains. Along the way we meet friendly farmers driving oxen to the fields and guiding donkeys carrying supplies to the next village. Without hesitation, they great us with a warm smile and a friendly chat and inquire where we have come from and where we are headed.
With the gain of elevation the mountains grow steeper, the sun stronger, and we begin to notice the pesky itchy bites we are getting from the no see um gnats. We were quickly forced to adapt to the elements of the Sierra Madres. Despite the heat we put on long pants, tall socks, and long sleeved shirts and like magic, we stopped getting bit and burnt.
The route through the Sierra Madre del Sur Mountains ranges in elevation repetitively from 5,500 ft to 6,500 ft (1,676 -1,981 m). Within this minimal elevation change the biome changes as well, with pine-oak forests at the higher elevations and tropical dry forests at the lower elevations. Sprinkled throughout are small isolated villages perched high above the clouds and nestled deep within the jungle, the only indicator of their existence being the cheerful music reverberating from town through the surrounding mountains. These villages act as frequent opportunities to stock up on supplies and to engage with the indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec people who are direct descendents of the ancient civilizations that existed in Oaxaca during Mesoamerican period. Each group has its own language, customs, religious beliefs, traditional dress, and are artisans specializing in a unique craft to sell at markets.
On a particularly hot day we stopped in a village at a roadside store to refill our water and cool down in the shade. As we were sitting outside a woman emerged from her home with two bowls of a cool white corn based liquid soup with spots of mold floating on top. The soup was so nourishing to our bodies and refreshing on such a hot day it was as if the woman new exactly what we needed and cared enough to share. This is just one example of the generosity and the charm characteristic of the indigenous people of Oaxaca who we encountered. Later we learned that this soupy beverage is called Atole.
As the route begins its 6,500 ft (1,981 m) descent to seal level we became stifled by the heat and made frequent stops to sip coconut juice and to eat fresh mango, pineapple and melon.
The route turns to pavement and short steep coastal hills tug us closer to the Oaxaca coast where a number of remote beach and fishing communities are located. Our destination is Playa Zipolite, a one-mile stretch of golden sand with rocky sea cliffs on either side next to the clear turquoise Pacific waters.
In the 1970’s, the isolated nature of the Oaxaca’s coast attracted hippies from all over the world, particularly to Playa Zipolite. As a result the community exudes a free love paradise vibe with a relaxed attitude toward most things, including nudism. The beach in Zipolite has been unofficially nudist for over 30-years and legally nudist since 2016. The long tradition of nudism, along with the numerous nudists, allows for a safe and unique place to even out those cycling tan lines.
Having only three paved roads, the village is hip with a variety of tasty restaurants, cafes, and lodging ranging from rustic to luxurious. If you manage to strip yourself from the relaxing shade of a palm-thatched palapa, there are plenty of opportunities to surf, do yoga, get a massage, or snorkel.
Sunned, tired, and dusted we roll into the hip streets of Zipolite and straight to the beach. We drop our bikes in the sand, take off our dirty clothes, and jump into the cold large waves. Let the vacation begin.
Note
A two day detour from San Pedro de Coatlán is a town called San Jose del Pacifico known for the hallucinogenic mushroom Psilocybe Mexicana that grow in the region. Though their consumption is illegal, the ‘magic mushrooms’ attract travelers from all over the world, infamously John Lennon and Bob Dylan, to take a trip. Regardless of its reputation, San Jose del Pacifico is a nice detour off route offering places to stay with good views, and tamazcal steam baths in a mystic setting.
Details
Start / Oaxaca City, Mexico
End / Zipolite, Mexico
Distance / 170 Miles (274 km)
Getting There / Oaxaca City Airport
Getting Away/ Hualtulco or Puerto Escondido Airport
Where to stay / Oaxaca City – Quinta Real Oaxaca. Zipolite – Lo Cosmico
Best time of year to ride / November through February
Route GPX / https://ridewithgps.com/routes/28564458
For more information on this route visit, www.bikepacking.com
What To Bring / GPS device, camping equipment, cookware, clothing layers, repair kit, spare tubes, a battery charger, your climbing legs and an open mind!
What type of bike / A bicycle with at least 40mm tires is best used for this route.